Recommended Setup: CG: 20" back from the tip of the nose
Aileron throw: .25" measured at the widest part
Elevator throw: .75" measured at the tip
Aileron Expo: 30-40
Elevator Expo: 15-25
Motor: Grayson Super Parkjet v2 combo
Esc: Grayson Super Parkjet v2 combo
Battery: 11.1v 1500-1800mah 25c lipo
Servos: HS55's or better
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. | 1. Find the four main wing plates and wing spar. |
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2. Glue the halves together. | |
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3. Glue the spar to the rear half of the main wing plate. | |
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4. Glue the front half of the main wing plate to the spar. | |
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5. Find the intake side pieces. There are four of them. | |
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6. Take one tooth pick and break it in half. Stick the pieces into one of the intake pieces. | |
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7. Taking care to make sure the top edge is level, glue the two halves together. The tooth pick makes the joint very strong. Repeat for the other side. | |
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8. Locate the lower intake plate. | |
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9. Start gluing the intake side to the lower intake plate, making sure the bottom plate follows the slight bend in the intake side. | |
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10. Work your way toward the back. | |
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11. When finished with one side, repeat for the other side. | |
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12. Locate the fuse side pieces and fuse bottom. Note that the top and bottom are very similar, but the bottom has smaller tabs and has more fold lines in the nose section. | |
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13. Working from front to back, choose if you want the canopy line on the outside or inside of the fuse (Shown as inside), and then glue one side to the outside of the bottom piece. | |
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14. Repeat step 13 for the other side, and locate the fuse top piece. | |
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15. Starting from the front and working back, glue the top piece inside the fuse side pieces making sure to follow the curve as close as possible. | |
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16. Once finished, you will notice overhang on the top and bottom. This is by design. | |
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17. Cut the bottom flush with the back. Cut the top with approximately 1" overhang. This will be sanded round later to give the plane a finished look. | |
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18. Locate the main wing plate and the intake. Carefully spread the side pieces until the tabs fit in the slots in the main wing pate, and at the rear of the main wing plate. Once satisfied with the fit, glue the intake to the main wing plate all along the joint. | |
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19. Locate the rear turbine humps | |
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20. Taking care, sand them round to make a mirrored pair. | |
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21. Now, glue them to the top of the main wing plate with the rudder slots toward the outside. | |
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22. When all glue has dried, enlarge the elevator slot as shown to allow for more movement. | |
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23. Slide the elevator in as shown. | |
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24. Make sure the hinge line is lined up correctly as shown, and that the elevator moves up and down freely. Then glue in place. | |
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25. Sand the rear of the fuse to your desired shape. | |
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26. Using the angle guide, glue the vertical tabs in place making sure everything is flush. | |
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27. Sand the rear of the forward fuse round as shown. | |
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28. Continue sanding the rest of the fuse round until satisfied. | |
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29. Cut the canopy off of the fuse, using the canopy line as a guide. If you put the canopy line on the inside of the fuse, as shown, you may need to hold it up to a light to mark you cut line. | |
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30. Paint as desired. | |
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31. Just in front of the spar, trace your servo's footprint. | |
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32. Cut out the traced foam, and hot glue your servo in place. | |
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33. Just in front of one of the servos, and near the bottom of the plane, trace your elevator's servo footprint, cut out, and hot glue your servo in place. | |
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34. Glue your control horns in place as shown, making sure the hole in the control horn is directly over the hinge line. | |
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35. Bend a Z bend in one end of piano wire, and with your servo arm at 90 degrees to the wing, place the z end in the servo. Then mark the location of the other z bend, making sure the surface is level. | |
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36. Unscrew the screw that holds your servo arms on, and set aside. Next, place one z end in the control horn first, then the other in the servo arm. Next, place the horn back on the servo, but don't screw it on yet. | |
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37. Repeat steps 35 and 36 for the other two servos. | |
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38. Make sure your ESC power wires and RX wire is long enough to reach the cockpit. If not, lengthen them at this time. Also, make sure your motor is rotating in the correct direction. | |
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39. Epoxy a wooden motor mount to the rear fuse plate. Then, screw your motor to the wooden motor mount. Glue the whole assembly in the rear of the fuse, making sure that there is no right or left thrust, as well as no up or down thrust. | |
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40. Hook your servos and ESC to your RX, and pop off all the servo arms before powering up. | |
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41. Power up your radio with zero trim, then power up the plane (careful of the motor). Snap your servo arms on as close to vertical as possible, while trying to keep the surfaces level. | |
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42. Slide your forward fuse onto the main wing plate, all the while feeding your power wire and RX into the forward compartment. Once the forward fuse has been slid into position, glue it in place making sure it is straight in line with the rear fuse. | |
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43. Glue two toothpicks to the front of the canopy as shown. | |
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44. Place the canopy on the fuse, and use strong tape to hold it in place or use magnets. (Note the piece shown was not enough and the canopy flew through the prop cutting it up.)
45. Place your battery in the cockpit, moving it forward and backward to achieve the recommended CG. |
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